The Junkers Ju 87 B-2 “Stuka” remains one of the most recognizable dive bombers of the Second World War. With its infamous siren and gull-wing design, this aircraft left a lasting impression on aviation history. Building a scale plastic model of the Ju 87 B-2 is a rewarding project for any modeler interested in WWII aircraft. Below is a step-by-step guide to assembling and painting this legendary plane.
1. Choosing the right kit
Several manufacturers offer 1/48 and 1/32 scale models of the Ju 87 B-2. Tamiya, Airfix, and Academy are known for their high-quality moldings and detailed parts. Before starting, review the instruction manual and check that all sprues and decals are intact. Make sure to clean all parts gently with warm soapy water to remove any mold release agent.
2. Cockpit assembly
Start with the cockpit, as it sets the tone for the entire build. The Ju 87 B-2 features a tandem cockpit with a gunner’s station in the rear. Carefully paint all parts while they are still on the sprue. Use RLM 66 Schwarzgrau (black grey) for the cockpit interior. Highlight the instrument panel with dry brushing and use a fine brush to add detail to the dials and switches.
Once painted and dry, assemble the cockpit components, glue the control stick, seats, and side panels in place. Consider adding aftermarket photo-etched seatbelts for an extra level of realism.
3. Fuselage and wing assembly
After the cockpit is complete and dry-fitted, join the fuselage halves. Use clamps or rubber bands to ensure a tight seam. Once set, sand down any visible seams with a fine sanding stick.
Attach the wings next. The distinctive inverted gull wings of the Ju 87 require careful alignment. Test fit before applying cement. Don’t forget to install the internal bomb bay components or wing machine gun barrels if the kit includes them.
4. Landing gear and external details
The Ju 87’s fixed landing gear with large spats is one of its unique features. Paint the wheel covers and struts separately, using RLM 70 (black green). Attach them after the main painting stage to avoid damage during masking and airbrushing.
Add smaller details like pitot tubes, antennas, and bombs near the end of assembly. Some kits offer the siren propellers mounted on the landing gear—don’t miss this detail if you aim for historical accuracy.
5. Painting and camouflage
The standard Luftwaffe camouflage for the Ju 87 B-2 includes RLM 70/71 on the upper surfaces with RLM 65 (light blue) underneath. Use an airbrush for smooth transitions and realistic shading. Start with a primer coat, then apply the base colors in thin layers.
Use masking putty or soft tape to achieve the characteristic splinter camouflage pattern on the wings and fuselage. Let each color dry fully before applying the next. Consider pre-shading or post-shading techniques to add depth and realism to the surface.
6. Decals and markings
Once the paint is fully cured, apply a gloss clear coat to prepare the surface for decals. Use Micro Set and Micro Sol solutions to help decals conform to the model’s surface and avoid silvering. Apply national insignia, squadron codes, and any stencils provided in the kit.
Once decals are dry, seal them with another coat of gloss varnish, followed by a final matt or satin coat depending on your preference.
7. Weathering and finishing touches
To bring your Stuka to life, apply subtle weathering effects. Use oil paints for panel line washes, pastel chalk for exhaust stains, and sponge chipping for worn paint areas around access panels and wing edges. Be conservative with weathering—too much can overwhelm the realism.
Once everything is dry and set, attach all remaining parts, including the propeller, canopy, and rear gun. The canopy can be left open to show off the detailed interior.
8. Displaying your Stuka
A simple base with grass, concrete, or airfield planking can enhance the presentation of your model. Consider adding a pilot figure or ground crew for a diorama effect.
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